• The French House, W1 - ‘like stepping out of a time machine' - restaurant review | Grace Dent

    1 month ago - By The Guardian

    A reopened Soho institution that lends itself to old-school, but discreet debauchery It's a hollow task to review a restaurant that has tottered on already, entirely without my gilded bon mots, for more than 100 years. I'm sure Francis Bacon , who drank copiously at The French House in Soho, would have curled a lip at a lowly critic prancing in to assess a space that he and Dylan Thomas had already deemed near-perfect. Furthermore, it is rare that I begin a review of a brand new venture by grounding it in the dusty, what-went-before, but in The French's case, the past is not a foreign...
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